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Critical Mass in Rome (part one)

Just as incredible as you might imagine”¦ maybe more so”¦ Wild bikes, warm people, a sweet scene late in the ride when a woman sat on her boyfriend’s handlebars facing him, with her arms wrapped tightly around him in a loving embrace, her head buried on his shoulder, while he pedaled along in the ride. Riding through Rome, through thousands of years of history at every turn, is simply incommensurable! Nothing like it”¦

In just a few days in Rome I have been so welcomed, and so warmly embraced, it’s almost embarrassing, but in fact it has been the thrill of a lifetime! I have more than 50 new friends, and I’m sure there are at least several thousand more whom I will meet eventually. Rome could be a second home, without doubt.

Critical Mass is an unusual prism through which to experience a city. For one thing, it’s always unique in each place it happens, but on the other hand, it’s a eerily familiar experience. Well, I’ll take it from the top, knowing that I have already forgotten way more than I can remember and write down here. I headed out at 5:30 on Friday to find a small group gathering at a nearby “ciclofficina” (the local DIY bikeshops, of which there were four, but as of yesterday at the Ciemmona a fifth one announced itself) but in the dense streets of Monti here in the center of Rome, I could not find them. Luckily I was loaned a cellphone so I made a call, simultaneous to Ilaria calling to see where the hell I was, and she found me a few minutes later. There were already a group of about a dozen Spaniards there, including one fellow from Mexico, and Rebecca with her ferret in her front basket (she later that night danced to pulsing funk and Motown with the sweet animal draped around her shoulders!). The rest of our entourage soon pulled out and 30 of us or so headed towards the gathering point at Piramide. Here’s Ilaria with her sound system in tow.

At Piramide about 1000 cyclists assembled (this was the local, smaller “normal” ride on Friday night), including a bunch of us internationalistas who had already made it to Rome for the Big One to follow on Saturday. Piero, whom I’d met the night before at the ciclofficina Don Quixote at SNIA (more on SNIA in the next post), was in fine form, juggling with a bunch of friends, and a vehicle called “Ciclo Ludo Muzga Bus” decked out in several drums, getting everyone dancing a bit as we enjoyed the late sun streaming over the Pyramid (stolen from Egypt by the Romans more than 2000 years ago and rebuilt here).

Continue reading Critical Mass in Rome (part one)

Great Night at Flexi (and beyond)

I had a fantastic night at Flexi Libreria last night. Somewhere between 50 and 80 people jammed in to the beautiful new space, which takes its name from the increasing precarity that its founders, all research and technical workers during their “day jobs,” face. Francesca, Andrea, and all the folks I met there were so hospitable and gave me an incredible welcome and a fantastic venue to present Nowtopia. It’s hard for me to judge, since I’m presenting, but as in Milan, it seemed to really resonate for the folks who came, and the discussion that followed went in interesting directions, about organization, subcultural exclusion, technology, human nature, work and ecology, a side moment on my ideological influences and the state of EarthFirst!, Peter Berg, and ecological politics in general in the U.S. It was the best night I’ve had on the tour yet. Special thanks to Rotafixa and Andrea for making this happen, and doing the simultaneous translation. Here are some photos of the place, the crowd before the Talk, and some shots during the Talk (I admit this is a bit of a scrapbook/journal for me at these moments, but hey, it is after all MY blog! Apologies if you’re only interested in deep thoughts, which only pop up here intermittently at best!).

Rotafixa introduces the evening:

Continue reading Great Night at Flexi (and beyond)

Just another tourist in Rome?

I arrived in Rome 24 hours ago and already it’s been a great visit. Tonight I’ll be presenting Nowtopia at a local bookshop, just a short distance from where I’m staying, quite close to the Cavour Metro station. Being in the heart of the city is super lucky, and just amazingly beautiful. My host, Paolo B. and his family, have a gorgeous 2-story apartment in via Urbana, and I am writing this sitting on their terrace overlooking the bustling street below. Here’s the street-level view from a half block down the street:

The terrace is L-shaped with two wings:

Paolo has a garden on the roof, where that spiral staircase heads, and after tonight’s event he plans to take a bunch of us and some plants he’s collected and start a guerrilla garden nearby. Last night he took me hurtling through the streets on a super-comfy one-speed with coaster brakes (he’s building great frames in his basement workshop), first to a picnic of bicyclists, and then to Pigneto neighborhood where we hung out on a street full of life in teeming outside bars. Public life and street life in Italy, for all the laments I’ve been hearing, is still vastly better than anything in the U.S.

Anyway, in the short time I’ve been here I managed to get a long walk in, down to the Tiber River, weaving among some of the sights here in Rome. Lest you doubt me, here’s the picture that proves that I’m both a tourist, and that I am above tourists!

Continue reading Just another tourist in Rome?