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Entering Peru

Continuing my slow progress through our trip (Feb-March) to Ecuador and Peru. This entry covers the trip out of the Andes across the border to Peru, and then arriving in Cuzco… but first, a couple of things to reference.

First, the new book is out! “Ten Years That Shook the City: San Francisco 1968-78” is available now here. We’ve also created a free audio walking tour through 24 points of interest in San Francisco, mostly in the Mission District, which you can check out from afar, here.

Secondly, not to anyone’s surprise, but let me say how intensely I detest Obama and his pusillanimous hypocrisy. Now that the presidential madness is already starting, we’ll have to endure endless reproaches from apologists and the unclear, demanding that we hold our noses and objections and support Obama because the alternative would be so much worse… really?!? Let me quote Jane Mayer’s excellent piece in the New Yorker this week, who is here quoting Jack Balkin, a Yale law professor:

“We are witnessing the bipartisan normalization and legitimization of a national-surveillance state,” he says. In his view, zealous leak prosecutions are consonant with other political shifts since 9/11: the emergence of a vast new security bureaucracy, in which at least two and half million people hold confidential, secret, or top-secret clearances; huge expenditures on electronic monitoring, along with a re-interpretation of the law  in order to sanction it; and corporate partnerships with the government that have transformed the counterterrorism industry into a powerful lobbying force. Obama, Balkin says, has “systematically adopted policies consistent with the second term of the Bush Administration.”

Combine this observation with the reauthorization of the Patriot Act’s police-state policies, it’s just another super obvious example of how we live in a one-party state. Sure, there are some minor differences between the two factions, but they agree on war, imperialist militarism, the dictatorship of business and property, reinforcing the widening maldistribution of wealth, etc.  So don’t wring your hands in my direction about keeping the Democrats in power… they are disgusting!

Back to travels… These photos are from our journey from Cuenca, Ecuador to Piura, Peru, crossing the border after a fantastic ridge-top bus ride that took several hours to descend from the high Andes to the hot tropical climate near the border. Before we arrived in Piura we crossed sandy desert, and the entire 3 hour bus ride from Piura to Chiclayo on the coast was through harsh desert.

As we rode along ridgetops on a small twisting road, the views were amazing.

We stayed on top of one ridge after another for hours as we drove along towards Peru.

As we came down from the mountains, the flora changed to a more tropical one.

That's our bus crossing the bridge at the Macara River which is the border between Ecuador and Peru.

Standing on the border/bridge, still in Ecuador.

In Piura, Peru, the most common vehicles were moto-tricycles.

After Piura we continued to Chiclayo where we stayed overnight before taking a very early a.m. flight to Cuzco, back to 12,000 feet altitude!

Cuzco from our hotel balcony... the original capital of the Incas, still a magical city, though super tourism-oriented.

To Ingapirca and Cuenca

Chimborazo partially obscured by clouds as we finally catch a glimpse far to the west of it.

Our journey continues through the Ecuadorian Andes (sorry to all who might be waiting for me to finish this… my plate in San Francisco has been super full lately, so I’m trying to get to this as soon as I can).  We left Salinas on a hilariously speeding ride in the back of a pickup through the emerald green terraced mountains, hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous volcano Chimborazo. Suddenly it appeared in the distance, swathed in clouds, but after we switched to a bus in Guaranda we took a route across the western and southern flanks of the mountain, and got incredible close-up views of it. Perhaps one of the most magical moments of our trip was seeing a herd of vicuña (an antelope-like creature that lives only in the high Andes, a cousin to alpacas and llamas–my mother had tasked us with bringing her back some vicuña wool to knit with but we learned that it was banned since the animals are extremely endangered).

A herd of vicuña gallivanting across the high flanks of Chimborazo. They have been re-established here after being wiped out earlier in history.

A bit blurry, but a close-up of vicuña.

It was a beautiful ride across the flanks of Chimborazo. Here’s a few shots as we approached and then looped around it.

In Ecuador, fantastic green countryside with iconic volcanoes poking up along the long north-to-south crest of the Andes.

Looking back to the southwest from the high flank of Chimborazo.

Amidst bored, snoring passengers we were along in craning and bending ourselves around the interior of the bus to catch views like this.

This is one of my favorite shots from the whole month-long trip, Chimborazo as seen from due south, after we'd crossed the mountain and were starting to approach the city of Riobamba.

Continue reading To Ingapirca and Cuenca

Salinas de Guaranda: A Nowtopian Town in Ecuador

From Guaranda we rode in the back of a Camioneta to Salinas de Guaranda, a little over an hour further into the brilliant green mountains of the Ecuadorian Andes. We’d heard it was a remarkable place, a town far from the tourist track full of cooperative small businesses. We travelled in gray, increasingly wet weather and arrived to a big Carnaval celebration in the town center.

Salinas is tucked in the upper left corner of this image, still several kilometers away as we approached.

The town square where folks had gathered despite the rain to enjoy live music and raffles and Carnaval celebration (and much drinking!).

Some had come down from the surrounding hills on horseback…

…While dozens of others arrived in these old mountain buses.

We dropped our stuff at the local hotel, El Refugio, one of the network of cooperatives, and ran back to the center to join the fun. We strolled around and listened to the music, talked to some locals, and got a taste of the local fire water, Pajaro Azul, a perfumey cane sugar-derived drink that packs a wallop! Soon the drizzle turned into a real downpour and everyone bolted for the balconies along the side of the square. Continue reading Salinas de Guaranda: A Nowtopian Town in Ecuador